We began our heavenly week-long Andalusian and Madrid trip in Seville. The "city of color and light" has an exotic charm that feels straight out of The Arabian Nights. The region's history, shaped by over 500 years of Islamic rule between the 8th and 13th centuries (The Moors from North Africa), has a fascinating fusion of Roman, Islamic  and Christian cultures. You see it everywhere—cathedrals built on mosques, Jewish quarters next to cathedrals, hidden courtyards, and flamenco dancing that combines Jewish, Islamic, and Christian gypsy traditions. All of this exists under an orange scented, sun-drenched sky with delicious food, wine, and wonderfully welcoming Spanish hosts whose humor, hospitality and appetite for life is infectious .

We stayed at the magnificent Hotel Alfonso XIII. Commissioned by King Alfonso for the 1929 Ibero-American Exhibition, this enchanting hotel is full of Moorish details and grand public spaces fit for a king. We enjoyed gazpacho and wine for lunch here and daily swims before cocktail hour. Its seductive architecture and  atmosphere, with birds flying overhead, the hotel cat lounging, and the constant clip-clop of carriage horses outside the walls makes time stand still.

Restaurant:

Our favorite restaurant, El Rinconcillo, was built in 1670, and is the oldest restaurant in the city—an authentic institution. We easily slipped into the 9:00 PM dinner hour, and the owner/maître d' took excellent care of us, recommending one delicious Spanish wine after another and local favorites in the cozy, ancient dining room. This was our first encounter with the famous jamon serrano and tomato toast we would devour every day.

Flamenco Show:

Tablao Flamenco Los Gallos, located in a tiny, ancient theater in the Jewish quarter, was incredible! With no cameras, no merchandise, and just a small bar, the performance truly blew us away.

Shopping:

Skip the main shopping street on Calle Sierpes and instead wander through the old Jewish section, specifically the Barrio de Santa Cruz and the Barrio de San Bartolomé. Here you'll find tiny artisanal shops hidden among winding streets and tapas bars. I bought a fantastic Indian textile from an English dealer, Carolina Stone, at her shop, @sevilletextilechest, on Santa Teresa 3 in the Barrio de Santa Cruz, which is a must.

Day Trip:

Cordoba and Granada (Alhambra) are both rich in history and not to be missed . Because of time restraints, we only went to Cordoba, and it was beyond my imagination. It was a vital city during the roman empire, and became the capital of the Islamic caliphate in the 10th century. The mosque cathedral Mezquita - Catedral and the old town (a UNESCO site) is a labyrinth of whitewashed buildings and beautiful gardens. Combine this with picturing Columbus (we learned of a man of utmost  mystery) securing funding from Isabella and Ferdinand there after years of trying in 1492.

After three divine days in Seville, we headed by train to Madrid.

Next Stop: Madrid

 

The capital of Spain and seat of the royal family, Madrid is made up of elegant boulevards, world renowned museums, lush parks, and an incredible food scene. All of this combined with its rich cultural and historical heritage make it a three to four day destination.

Hotel:

Hands down, the stunning Santo Mauro. Perfectly located in the peaceful Chamberí neighborhood, this 19th-century palace, originally home to the influential Duke of Santo Mauro, has been exquisitely decorated by Lorenzo Castillo, one of Spain's most renowned interior decorators. The  mirrored bar is  an excellent spot for people-watching, with its distinguished  patrons and  elegant travelers mingling in the lavish public rooms. Charlie, the talented bartender/sommelier will find you the driest sherry from Andalusia to the best red wine. It was a peaceful haven in the busy city and truly a first class hotel. 

Textiles: 

The Royal Tapestry Factory was an incredible treat. A private tour offered a mesmerizing look at skilled weavers bringing intricate designs to life on looms, a testament to an 18th-century legacy. Their passion for their craft was uplifting and authentic. We watched artisans weaving rugs and tapestries on ancient looms, saving and keeping this ancient art form alive.

Restaurant:

La Parra (magical seductive interiors with delicious food and wine) and El Lando (authentic local spot with traditional Spanish food and a truly old school vibe). Also, the the restaurant at the Santo Mauro hotel—all pure magic. 

Shopping:

Pequeña Inglaterra is an amazing home store. Antigua Casa Crespo, founded in 1863, is an amazing espadrille shop that has every color and style. We were wasted on the fifth-generation of the family and all left with a new pair for next summer.

Again Cashmere for beautiful cashmere and pashminas in exceptional colors. 

Day Trips:

Day Trips to Segovia and Toledo completed our Spanish journey. In Segovia, the Roman aqueduct is magnificent and over 2000 years old! Also, the fairy-tale Alcázar captivates with its turreted silhouette. Toledo, with its labyrinth of medieval streets, offers a glimpse into a past where Christian, Muslim, and Jewish influences coalesce in harmony. We had private guides on all of the day trips and they were well worth it.

By the time we left, the history of Spain had our heads spinning, the warm Andalusian sun had seduced us, and we were already eager to return. Next trip on our list is Cadiz and the coastline!